These inhabited gypsy caves are the subject of much controversy. Admittedly, they're a tourist trap, one of the most obviously commercial and shadowy rackets in Spain. Still, the caves are a potent enough attraction if you follow some rules.

Once, thousands of gypsies lived on the "Holy Mountain," so named because of several Christians martyred here. However, many of the caves were heavily damaged by rain in 1962, forcing hundreds of the occupants to seek shelter elsewhere. Nearly all the gypsies remaining are in one way or another involved with tourism. (Some don't even live here-they commute from modern apartments in the city.)

When evening settles over Granada, loads of visitors descend on these caves near the Albaicín, the old Arab section. In every cave you'll hear the rattle of castanets and the strumming of guitars, while everybody in the gypsy family struts his or her stuff. Popularly known as the zambra, this is intriguing entertainment only if you have an appreciation for the grotesque. Whenever a gypsy boy or girl comes along with genuine talent, he or she is often grabbed up and hustled off to the more expensive clubs. Those left at home can be rather pathetic in their attempts to entertain.

One of the main reasons for going is to see the caves themselves. If you're expecting primitive living, you may be in for a surprise-many are quite comfortable, with conveniences like telephones and electricity. Often they're decorated with copper and ceramic items-and the inhabitants need no encouragement to sell them to you.

If you want to see the caves, you can walk up the hill by yourself. Your approach will already be advertised before you get here. Attempts will be made to lure you inside one or another of the caves-and to get money from you. Alternatively, you can book an organized tour arranged by one of the travel agencies in Granada. Even at the end of one of these group outings-with all expenses theoretically paid in advance-there's likely to be an attempt by the cave dwellers to extract more money from you. As soon as the zambra ends, hurry out of the cave as quickly as possible. Many readers have been critical of these tours.

During the zambra, refuse to accept a pair of castanets, even if offered under the friendly guise of having you join in the fun. If you accept them, chances are you'll later be asked to pay for them. Buying anything in these caves isn't recommended. Leave your jewelry at your hotel and don't take more money than you're prepared to lose.

A visit to the caves is almost always included as part of the morning and (more frequently) afternoon city tours offered every day by such companies as Grana Visión (tel. 958-13-58-04). Night tours of the caves (when the caves are at their most eerie, most evocative, and most larcenous) are usually offered only to those who can assemble 10 or more people into a group. This might have changed by the time of your visit, so phone a reputable tour operator such as Grana Vision to learn if any newly developed options are available.